Light: when you research tree care, you'll notice most species are listed as Full Sun to Part Shade. This isn't quite accurate.

• • • "Full Sun": most baby trees grow up in woodlands & forests. They may compete for full sun as adults, but appreciate some sort of protection while young.

    • Harsh Sun: continuous all day sun or intense afternoon sun can burn plants, especially in dry sites. Consider planting your tree somewhere with partial sun or breaks (a few hours here and there).

    • East or West: Eastern morning sun is more gentle than South & Western sun. 

    • Exposure: buildings, shrubs, valleys & parent trees can all protect young plants for harsh winter wind, scorching sun, or storms.

Soil: you can amend soil type, but moisture may be more difficult. How does the location change throughout the year? Is it prone to standing water or drying our?

• • • Wet: periods of standing water will kill most trees. If your site has standing water after a rain, choose the right species. A willow, blackgum tree, or sycamore are native options that would do well here. Fill in around them with native raingarden plants.

    • Dry: several native trees offer drought tolerance once established. Until then, can you easily water your young plant?  Do you have a hose that will reach? Are you willing to haul buckets?  If not, consider planting native prairie plants instead. Eastern red cedar, eastern redbud, wild black cherry & sumac species are good trees & shrubs for dry areas. 

    • Average: for other soils, make sure you can consistently water your baby tree in times of drought. In a year or three, most trees do well in average soil without much intervention.

    • Amending: the great thing about Missouri soil, is that most can be amended. 

      • • Organic matter like mulch, cardboard, leaves, etc. can provide long term nutrition as it slowly breaks down

        • Compost: many new plants appreciate the nutrition of compost mixed in their planting site

        • Sand, clay, top soil & mulch are just some of the ways you can change your soil quality.

        • Nutrition: there are many options for testing your soil to see what it has & what it lacks. Fertilizers are available in a wide range of nutrients & application methods.

Space: you are working with a large & living organism. Make sure you both have enough room, by considering:

• • • How big wide will it grow?  Landscape designers often plan for 2/3 of the species mature size. This calculation gives the plant time & room to mature.

      • • Example: Juneberry can grow 15-25' wide. 2/3 rule says I need to provide 10-17' of space.

    • How tall does the plant get? Don't plant trees under power lines. If the tree can get taller than your house, don't plant it too close. Limbs overhanging your roof can be dangerous & expensive to fix. House insurance companies can be very picky about roofs & overhanging trees

    • What's happening underground? You don't want to dig around buried lines. Where are your pipes? Water loving plants like willows shouldn't be planted anywhere near your buried water & sewer lines.

    • Will it need pruning?

    • Is it messy?  This could be fine for a backyard, but you may not want a tree dropping fruit where you park your vehicle.

    • Is it convenient to care for? Can you get it enough water during droughts? Will you notice when it needs you?

• Time: when you plant your tree or shrub matters. 

  • • Seeds: many native species are built for our winters. This means many native seeds, including tree & shrub seeds, require a period of cold stratification before they can germinate. A secure plastic container can be a good place to plant seeds in fall. This lets them experience winter. You can also use the fridge/freezer, but nature tends to do a better job.  Once they germinate they can be temporarily planted in pots or directly in to their final location.

    • Seedlings: Spring & Fall are the best times to plant trees in the St. Louis region. Winters can be harsh with untimely frost. Summers can bring drought & extreme heat. These extremes can stress out baby plants & make it harder on you the gardener.

    • Spring: Early blooming natives trees & shrubs can be planted while dormant. Milder temperatures help young plants get established. I try to complete all my planting before the end of May in St. Louis.

    • Fall: After August is also a good time to plant. You want to shock your tree as little as possible. Waiting for summer extremes to be over, will give your plant an easier time.

It can be devastating to invest in a tree, only for it to be damaged. I know it sounds like a hassle to cage your tree or shrub, but future you will thank you. Sometimes I've thought, oh, it'll be fine in this spot!...only to feel regret latter.

Protect from Who?

• Animals like deer could overgraze & kill it. They can eat the leaves or peel the bark. 

• Walking people & dogs. It is too easy for people or curious dogs to accidentally bump into a baby tree. This can break newly forming roots & delay establishment

• Mail carriers & utility workers may need to be in your yard. Young plants can be hard to see. Make it really clear where you have something planted to prevent accidents.

• Pollution: some trees are much more tolerant to living in cities & along roads than others.

• Road salt: if you are planting near the street, look to see if that plant can handle being sprayed by the salt snow plows disperse in winter.

Types of Protection

• You can buy tree cages, shelters & tubing specifically made to protect young trees

• T-post & fencing can provide a sturdy long term protection. Landscaping poles can be used as well, but they will need periodic readjustment.

After Care

• Check water regularly. During periods of heat or drought you may need to check on your baby several times a week.

• Mulch: don't pile it around the bark of your tree like a volcano. Above ground bark, needs to be above ground & receiving air. Deep mulch can do major damage, while the right amount can help reduce competition from other plants. Mulch can be deeper further away from the tree trunk.

• Shade cloth can be used during heatwaves

Remember, they are babies!

They will need some extra love & attention their first few years.

Other Considerations

• Forest System: this ecosystem needs enough moisture for trees to outcompete grasses. Many trees grow up in the shelter of their parents. This protects them from harsh sun & cold. 

• Pioneers: these are atypical species good at growing in sites other trees can't. Eastern Red Cedar & willos are good examples. Overtime these trees transform their habitats so other trees can start growing as well... slowly, over time, transitioning to forest. If your planting site is exposed empty lawn or recently disturbed ground, choose a species that can tolerate that site when they are young. Considers some tall, fast growing perennial plants to establish some shelter. After a few years you can create a site that will protect the young trees until they can get established. Be patient, or choose the right species. Below are some species that can pioneer a difficult site.

  • • • • • Acer negundo, Boxelder. A hardy, versatile native maple species. Easily volunteers in distrubed soils dry-wet, full sun to full shade.

          • Cercis canadensis, Eastern Red Bud. Has lots of heat & cold tolerance. They have super sensitive roots & are hard to move. Plant a young tree. The trick is getting it started right, then it's a quick grower. 

          • Juniperus virginiana, Eastern Red Cedar tolerates a wide range of soil moisture & sun light. In the STL area, we often see them colonizing rocky cliffs on the side of interstates. Great for dry & rocky, or shady & dry.

          • Salix nigra, Black Willow. Best for large, wet sites. Tolerates standing water other plants wont. It is a quick grower, but make sure it has plenty of room. This is one of the largest willow species in the world.